Cross pin particulars
Under normal operating conditions, the rear sight cross pin has tension on it supplied by the two small springs underneath the rear sight. Otherwise without the sight installed the cross pin is easy to push into the frame and may just fall out on its own. Now some Ruger revolvers come from the factory with pins that are slightly bent and some that are severely bent. Usually if you have to pound them out with considerable force they are bent to some degree from the factory. Most likely from rushed factory workers assembling parts that do not quite line up so it’s faster to pound them in if they don’t fit. Some pins are just ever so slightly bent that when you roll them across a flat surface you can see a slight wobble. They still go into the frame but may require a small tap or two from a brass punch. This is ok and actually helps hold the pin in place since the red dot mount does not have spring pressure underneath it.
If your cross pin has a slight bend from the factory, you are most likely good to go. If not, you can use a small amount of clear fingernail polish as a thread locker to help hold the pin. Otherwise, you can put a very slight bend in the pin by placing it on a block of wood and taping the center of it with a hammer and punch. Emphasis on slight bend! No need to overdo it. You should still be able to push the pin into the frame by hand most of the way.
Below are two factory pins removed from two brand new unfired guns. The right pin required considerable pounding with a steel punch to remove it from the gun, as you can see it is visibly bent. The left pin just required some light to moderate taps with a brass punch. You can barely see the bend, but when rolled across the table it does somewhat wobble. So, if you are starting off with a perfectly straight pin and want to slightly bend it the left example is what you should aim for. Either way, adding some clear fingernail polish is a safe bet.
Screw Lengths
One great aspect of the red dot market is the option of different optical sights available to suit your needs. Whether it be dot size, dot color, dot shapes, optic window size, closed emitters, open emitters, mounting options, shake awake features, battery life, button controls, the list goes on and on. Each red dot is classified as following a certain mounting standard or ‘Footprint’. Every company follows the standard features for the most part, but some venture off and make changes of their own. One of the most asked and difficult questions to answer is what length screws you need to mount your red dot to your firearm.
Red dot manufactures try to provide several screws to cover their bases on mounting, but they do not know which gun it is going on or what mounting system or plate you are using. Some companies send SAE screws, some send metric, or a combination of both. In the semi-auto world, it can be very confusing on what lengths are needed since the screws can interfere with internal components inside the slide and sometimes different lengths are needed on the left and right side. But on revolvers we are a little more fortunate that no moving parts are in jeopardy of interfering.
For example, Trijicon sends two different lengths of #6-32 screws with the RMR sight. One is 1/2” long and the other is 3/8” long. The 3/8” long screws will work for most applications like .357 Mag, .45 Colt, or .44 Mag. They are roughly 1/32” short of being flush with the bottom of the mount. Alternatively, the 1/2” long screw can also be used. It will stick out the bottom, but it can be easily shortened and reblued to where it is flush. This way you get full thread engagement into the mount. For heavier recoiling cartridges like the .454 Casull, using the 1/2” screw is recommended.
Other sights like Holosun or Swampfox, send both #6-32 and metric screws with their RMR compatible sights. The Griffon Hill RMR mount only accepts #6-32 screws, per the RMR standards. They will include different lengths of #6-32 screws to cover multiple applications, so it is best to use the longest screw and shorten it if necessary.
If you lose or break your factory screws and try to use aftermarket screws, just be careful that not all #6-32 flat head screws are the same. It is discussed on many forums for RMR users to buy the #6-32 screws from McMaster-Carr since they are stronger than many others. However, the head diameter is 0.307” while the factory Trijicon screws are 0.250” meaning the aftermarket screw heads will hang out of the countersunk hole and appear to be too large. Another issue is with Holosun screws. Since they are made in China, they send a #6-32 screw, which is SAE, but the countersink angle of the head is 90 degrees, which is a metric standard. The correct SAE version has an 82 degree countersink angle. So, if you try to use the same McMaster-Carr screw on a Holosun sight, the screw will not quite mesh with the countersunk hole. While most of this is cosmetic, it is best to contact the manufacturer and have them send you factory screws.
Handling Shims
Since these shims are made from plastic, static electricity will cause them to stick to just about any surface they land on. If you happen to drop one on the floor, use the static electricity to your advantage and with the touch of your fingertip you should be able to pick them up. Try not to pinch them as you would a piece of paper as this will crease the shim and it will not flatten out. If your dry finger will not ‘attract’ them, try touching your tongue to wet your fingertip as if you were turning the page of a book or magazine. A toothpick also works great for positioning them on the gun and mount during assembly.
What is a Ruger Blackhawk Flattop?
How can you tell from a glance if a Ruger Blackhawk is a Flattop model? Well, it’s all in the name, the top strap is flat of course. But there is a little more to it than that. Way back in 1955 Bill Ruger introduced a new single action called the Blackhawk, which was chambered in .357 Magnum, to compete with Colt’s Peacemaker. Not long after, Elmer Keith was able to convince Smith & Wesson and Remington to introduce a new cartridge; the .44 Magnum. Once Smith & Wesson’s new revolver was introduced in early 1956, Ruger began working on fitting the new cartridge to his Blackhawk and was able to release it to the public towards the end of 1956.
By 1959 the .44 Magnum Blackhawks (Flattops) became Super Blackhawks due to a few changes. A longer grip frame, an unfluted cylinder, and a longer barrel were added all in the name of taming the increased recoil. The frame was also beefed up with ‘ears’ being added to the top strap to protect the rear sight from damage. By 1962 the Flattop style was dropped in all chamberings of the Blackhawk.
What makes it confusing for some is the Flattop nomenclature was never an official name used by Ruger up until recent years with the reintroduction of the Flattop model. In fact, even on the new models there is no stamping or engraving that will say ‘Flattop.’ It is more of a nickname or designation used by enthusiasts and collectors that stuck to this iconic model.
The easiest way to tell the difference between a Flattop and regular Blackhawk is to look at the side profile of the top strap. All Flattop models new and old come with a rear sight that is stamped ‘Micro’ that fits flush with the top strap. The regular Blackhawks and Super Blackhawks will have ‘ears’ alongside the rear sight that will gradually slope down to meet the top strap.
If you are fortunate enough to own an original Flattop, whether you bought it new or it has been passed down to you, consider yourself one of the lucky ones. But for the rest of us, thankfully with the help of Lipsey’s, the new Blackhawk Flattop model is now a catalogued item at Ruger. Lipsey’s even took it a step further and introduced the Bisley Flattop that can also be found in Ruger’s catalogue. With the wild popularity of the Flattop model because of its innate balance and excellent accuracy, it seems as though the Flattop is here to stay.
Super Redhawk Fitment
Previous improper scope ring installation on Super Redhawks can cause burrs on the top strap where the scope ring cuts into the frame. These burrs will interfere with the mount sitting flat. They will need to be tapped down or carefully filed flush to allow the Griffon Hill mount to sit in its proper position.
